AKC Official Standard of the Smooth Fox Terrier
General Appearance: The dog must present a generally gay, lively and active appearance; bone and strength in a small compass are essentials; but this must not be taken to mean that a Fox Terrier should be cloddy, or in any way coarse - speed and endurance must be looked to as well as power, and the symmetry of the Foxhound taken as a model. The Terrier, like the Hound, must on no account be leggy, nor must he be too short in the leg. He should stand like a cleverly made hunter, covering a lot of ground, yet with a short back, as stated below. He will then attain the highest degree of propelling power, together with the greatest length of stride that is compatible with the length of his body. Weight is not a certain criterion of a Terrier's fitness for his work-general shape, size and contour are the main points; and if a dog can gallop and stay, and follow his fox up a drain, it matters little what his weight is to a pound or so.
N.B. Old scars or injuries, the result of work or accident, should not be allowed to prejudice a Terrier's chance in the show ring, unless they interfere with its movement or with its utility for work or stud.
Size, Proportion, Substance: According to present-day requirements, a full-sized, well balanced dog should not exceed 15½ inches at the withers - the bitch being proportionately lower - nor should the length of back from withers to root of tail exceed 12 inches, while to maintain the relative proportions, the head should not exceed 7¼ inches or be less than 7 inches. A dog with these measurements should scale 18 pounds in show condition - a bitch weighing some two pounds less-with a margin of one pound either way.
Balance - This may be defined as the correct proportions of a certain point, or points, when considered in relation to a certain other point or points. It is the keystone of the Terrier's anatomy. The chief points for consideration are the relative proportions of skull and foreface; head and back; height at withers and length of body from shoulder point to buttock-the ideal of proportion being reached when the last two measurements are the same. It should be added that, although the head measurements can be taken with absolute accuracy, the height at withers and length of back and coat are approximate, and are inserted for the information of breeders and exhibitors rather than as a hard-and-fast rule.
Head: Eyes and rims should be dark in color, moderately small and rather deep set, full of fire, life and intelligence and as nearly possible circular in shape. Anything approaching a yellow eye is most objectionable. Ears should be V-shaped and small, of moderate thickness, and dropping forward close to the cheek, not hanging by the side of the head like a Foxhound. The topline of the folded ear should be well above the level of the skull. Disqualifications - Ears prick, tulip or rose.
The skull should be flat and moderately narrow, gradually decreasing in width to the eyes. Not much “stop” should be apparent, but there should be more dip in the profile between the forehead and the top jaw than is seen in the case of a Greyhound. It should be noticed that although the foreface should gradually taper from eye to muzzle and should tip slightly at its junction with the forehead, it should not “dish” or fall away quickly below the eyes, where it should be full and well made up, but relieved from “wedginess” by a little delicate chiseling. There should be apparent little difference in length between the skull and foreface of a well balanced head.
Cheeks must not be full. Jaws, upper and lower, should be strong and muscular and of fair punishing strength, but not so as in any way to resemble the Greyhound or modern English Terrier. There should not be much falling away below the eyes. This part of the head should, however, be moderately chiseled out, so as not to go down in a straight slope like a wedge. The nose, toward which the muzzle must gradually taper, should be black. Disqualifications - Nose white, cherry or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these colors.
The teeth should be as nearly as possible together, i.e., the points of the upper (incisors) teeth on the outside of or slightly overlapping the lower teeth. Disqualifications - Much undershot, or much overshot.
Neck, Topline, Body: Neck should be clean and muscular, without throatiness, of fair length, and gradually widening to the shoulders. Back should be short, straight (i.e., level), and strong, with no appearance of slackness. Chest deep and not broad. Brisket should be deep, yet not exaggerated. The foreribs should be moderately arched, the back ribs deep and well sprung, and the dog should be well ribbed up. Loin should be very powerful, muscular and very slightly arched. Stern should be set on rather high, and carried gaily, but not over the back or curled, docked to leave about three quarters of the original length of the tail. It should be of good strength, anything approaching a “Pipestopper” tail being especially objectionable.
Forequarters: Shoulders should be long and sloping, well laid back, fine at the points, and clearly cut at the withers. The elbows should hang perpendicular to the body, working free of the sides. The forelegs viewed from any direction must be straight with bone strong right down to the feet, showing little or no appearance of ankle in front, and being short and straight in pastern. Both fore and hind legs should be carried straight forward in traveling. Feet should be round, compact, and not large; the soles hard and tough; the toes moderately arched, and turned neither in nor out.
Hindquarters: Should be strong and muscular, quite free from droop or crouch; the thighs long and powerful, stifles well curved and turned neither in nor out; hocks well bent and near the ground should be perfectly upright and parallel each with the other when viewed from behind, the dog standing well up on them like a Foxhound, and not straight in the stifle. The worst possible form of hindquarters consists of a short second thigh and a straight stifle. Both fore and hind legs should be carried straight forward in traveling, the stifles not turning outward. Feet as in front.
Coat: Should be smooth, flat, but hard, dense and abundant. The belly and underside of the thighs should not be bare.
Color: White should predominate; brindle, red or liver markings are objectionable. Otherwise this point is of little or no importance.
Gait: Movement, or action, is the crucial test of conformation. The Terrier's legs should be carried straight forward while traveling, the forelegs hanging perpendicular and swinging parallel with the sides, like the pendulum of a clock. The principal propulsive power is furnished by the hind legs, perfection of action being found in the Terrier possessing long thighs and muscular second thighs well bent at the stifles, which admit of a strong forward thrust or “snatch” of the hocks.
When approaching, the forelegs should form a continuation of the straight line of the front, the feet being the same distance apart as the elbows. When stationary it is often difficult to determine whether a dog is slightly out at shoulder, but, directly he moves, the defect - if it exists - becomes more apparent, the forefeet having a tendency to cross, “weave,” or “dish.” When, on the contrary, the dog is tied at the shoulder, the tendency of the feet is to move wider apart, with a sort of paddling action. When the hocks are turned in-cow-hocks-the stifles and feet are turned outwards, resulting in a serious loss of propulsive power. When the hocks are turned outward the tendency of the hind feet is to cross, resulting in an ungainly waddle.
Temperament: The dog must present a generally gay, lively and active appearance.
Disqualifications: Ears prick, tulip or rose. Nose white, cherry or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these colors. Mouth much undershot, or much overshot.
Approved July 8, 2002
Effective August 28, 2002
Smooth Fox Terrier
The Smooth Fox Terrier originated in England to go to ground and bolt the fox or dispatch vermin. He is an alert, compact dog standing about 15.5" at the shoulders and weighs about 18-20 pounds. They are predominantly white and may have black or tan markings. Their lean head, small folded ears, arched neck, square frame is followed by an upright tail that displays its joy of living. It is an active participant in any family, going from walks, to couch, to play or to bed. The Smooth is naturally happy, playful and clever. It is always alert to sights and sounds.
Training and Activities
Smooth Fox Terriers are very trainable, however, it should be understood that they were bred to be independent hunters and to be alert to all that they see, hear and smell. Once you have their attention and basic commands mastered there are many pursuits to share with your dog. Some performance activities come naturally, such as Earth Dog tests, Barn Hunt, Fast CAT and dock diving. Agility requires training but the Smooth can conquer all that comes without hesitation. Rally or obedience training are good foundations for any dog if positive methods are used. See www.AKC.org under Performance Events to learn when and where trials/tests take place.
Showing
If you are interested in showing your dog in conformation, go to a dog show with a strong Smooth entry, to observe. Study the breed standard at www.AKC.org to learn how the dog should look and move. Your dog’s breeder might be able to advise/mentor you. Junior showmanship is a worthwhile pursuit for a youngster. Local All-Breed clubs usually offer puppy, obedience and handling classes to train you and your dog. Of course, creating a routine at home is fun and useful. Sit, stay, wait to go out a door or out of a car, and into a crate will protect your dog and make life easier. A fenced in yard is imperative to contain the dog’s enthusiasm to chase squirrels or other animals.
Grooming
The Smooth’s short double coat is almost self-cleaning and its small feet track in little dirt. The coat will keep the dog warm on winter walks. Avoid salt on roads and paths. A brisk brushing or use of a pumice stone removes loose hair at shedding times. There are deshedding shampoos that are helpful as well. If need be, the Smooth is small enough for a hosing off in a bathtub. Do not wash your dog any more than necessary to remove excess dirt or rolled-in smells. Excess bathing removes natural oils. To tidy up your dog, just scissor or clip the “feathering” on the tail, rear end and sides of the neck to show off its sculptured body and hindquarters. Be sure to keep the nails short from an early age either with clippers or a Dremel grinder. The Dremel may be accepted better than nail clippers with a patient introduction to the sound and vibration of the tool. It is not likely to cause pain or to cut the nail blood vessel (quick).
Breed, Spay, Neuter
Breeding your Smooth Fox Terrier is a serious undertaking and a big financial investment. There is a lot to consider such as veterinary care for a dam and puppies, socializing puppies, proper facilities and finding and educating new owners. Your breeder should be able to advise you if your Smooth should be bred. Many reputable breeders sell their pet puppies on a limited AKC registration or on spay/neutered agreements. Spaying and neutering is something to discuss with your vet. For the companion dog, it is often the easiest way to proceed and be free of worry of heat cycles and an unwanted litter. The boys also benefit from neutering as it takes away the sexual drive and makes for an easy stress free life for the dog.
Your new Smooth Fox Terrier will give you years of fun and affection. They are hardy, easy to maintain, always up for a walk or play and make a fun loving companion.
The American Fox Terrier Club holds three Specialties annually in different parts of the country.
There is also a list of Regional Fox Terrier Clubs. Regional clubs hold annual specialties where a large number of Smooths can be seen in competition. There may be one near you.
References for History of both Smooth and Wire Fox Terriers
The New Fox Terrier by Harold Nedell, 1987
The New Complete Fox Terrier by Evelyn Silvermail, 1979
The American Kennel Club
www.AKC.org
The American Fox Terrier Club